Friday, July 30, 2010

Washington

Our stay in Washington was awesome! The state is pretty unique, and driving through it was inspiring. There are many vineyards, and acres of orchards. Throughout the whole southern region of Washington, huge signs scream 'FRUIT' (which seem to pronounced FRU-IT). The Fru-it is cheap, local, and good enough to make your bellies hurt and your stool look funny.

This was an interesting landmark that told us where to camp after driving for 6 hours from The City of Rocks, Idaho to the Tieton River Valley, Washington.
On our first day of climbing, we took this epic drive through the logging roads of the Tieton. After an hour of following obscure directions slowly guiding us up the switchbacks of incredibly steep mountains, we arrived at the crag. After 10 minutes of walking this is what popped into view: Mt. Rainier.
On our second day we found an incredible crag with Indian Creek Splitters in Columner andesite (lava that forms in columns which makes great cracks to slam your fingers and toes into). This is Jason using perfect finger locks and carefully stemming on Wildcat Crack.
George on Wildcat Crack. This was a challanging route for Jason, Lacey, George, and myself, and we all sent it! It was an awesome day.

The Tieton River Valley was incredibly hot, so we eventually escaped to Leavanworth, WA (The Bavarian Capital of America). Leavanworth has spiky peaks and is loved by one of my best friends, Tressa Hoegh! Tressa came to climb with us one day. This is Tressa and George on the amzingly exposed Outer Space.
Tressa builds trails during the summer, and hiking with her is like being led on the Bataan Death March. This baby goat and Tressa made friends atop Outer Space, except I think the billy was trying to make Tressa his property.
Look at that, we were in OUTER SPACE!On our last day in Leavenworth we went bouldering and hung out down by the river. Tressa tried to catch some dinner, but lost her lure on her second cast.As we were leaving Leavenworth we realized that George and I needed to trim up and look our best for the border crossing into Canada. Everyone chipped in and gave George a haircut and a mustache trim so that we would not be hassled at the border for looking like Americans.

Tuesday, July 27, 2010

Border Crossing

This past winter I had the wonderful opportunity to read my mother’s account of her time spent in a Texas jail for staying in the States longer than her Visa would allow her. It was a marvelous story, and you could sense her terror throughout the whole documentation of her three day stay. It was all the more pleasant to read, because I was naïve enough to believe that the priveledge of being a white, middle class, male would never put me in such a situation. Well, I was wrong. I encountered a similar experience, to which my mother’s only response was, “I guess our family has trouble at border crossings.”

I recently made the wonderful journey into the Northern part of the American continent. I did my research on how to get into Canada. I rehearsed what I would say, I made sure I did not take the wrong stuff, I shaved, I dressed up, and I tried to be as friendly as possible. My research led me to believe that the real struggle was getting back into the US because the Canadians are so much more forward thinking and care-free than us Americans right?

I pulled my truck loaded with supplies and climbing equipment into line at the border crossing, and nervously waited for my turn to get through. The other line was moving much faster than mine, which this only added to my anxiety: “Is this line’s officer stricter?”

When I pulled up I stressed even more, because it's hard to pull a car close enough to the booth to pass the documents over the void without smashing into the curb. I answered the first set of questions correctly.

“Where are you going, how long will you be there, do you have any fruits or vegetables, do you have any weapons, do you have anything that starts with the word ‘fire,’ and when was the last time you were in Canada?” I made it though the initial questions until they asked me what I would be doing in Squamish, Canada? Not wanting to lie, I responded with emphasis for the reason I would be crossing the border: “ROCK Climbing!”

This was apparently the wrong thing to say. From here on I could not answer a single question without fumbling over the details.

“What is your profession?”
“Uh… Student/unemployed?”
“Where will you live when you get to Squamish?”
“In the car at a campground… Or something like that.”
“How much money do you have with you?
“Uh…”
“Do you have health insurance? How will you pay for your hospital visit, since you will most likely get hurt doing something as stupid as trying to go up rock cliffs?”

The barrage continued, and when I thought I was in the clear, I was signaled to park and go inside for further questioning. The sense of failure at this point was immense, and I was trembling out of fear of what the Canucks might do to me and my travel companion.

We met a young Aryan officer inside with bleach blond hair and piercing blue eyes. He went through the usual questions and was clearly not satisfied. Eventually he had to give up on questions and explain everything a little more clearly for us.

“You know, usually when people just graduate college they have an immense amount of debt to pay off, how can you justify this trip? Where did you get your money from? Who is paying for this?”

I responded saying that we got through college with the help of our parents and scholarships, and that we had worked for our entire college career. I wanted to tell him that I was a miser and not a societal pawn who cast away his money into absurd debts, and that from childhood I had been conditioned to save money and consider how every purchases logic fit into my existence. I also wanted to tell him that we are two of the most fortunate individuals in the world who have the privilege of a hundred men, and we are rude enough to aknowledge it.


“So your parents are paying for this?” He replied.

He was wrong, but rather than correct him and make him angry, we let him reach his own conclusions and moved on. He wanted to know if we had health insurance. At this point of the conversation he realized we were not too foreign and began to pronounce his words with the typical Canadian tendency to shorten his ‘ou’ sounds.

“Ya see here in C’nadA, we are socialists, which means dat if yu eever get hurt we wud take care of yu. Sou yu have to show us dat yu have health insurance ‘cus we doo nat want to pay for yur injuries.”

I had to keep myself from laughing, because as he sprayed his socialist propaganda at us he had the most peculiar smirk on his face. His face was showed me that he had the confidence to pick us up by our beritches and march us right back to the American side of the continent.


He sent us out of the interrogation room to wait while he searched his data bases for any incriminating evidence. After waiting for twenty minutes, he called us back in and showed two pieces of paper he had printed off of one of those old fashioned inkjet printers that squeal with every pass of the ink cartridge.

He opened by saying, “well boys, I’m going to allow yu to leave Canada today.”

“But wait, we actually want to come to Canada,” I replied. My head was racing with too many questions, what if we chose to stay, can we stay if you arrest us, what if the Americans hassle us between the two nations and we are left in international purgatory?

We signed the documents and were on our way, after making sure we knew what to bring back to the officer when we returned. My fear of the American border officers was completely pointless. They just laughed at us and sent us on our way to print out documentation of money in our bank accounts and health insurance.


This allows us to leave Canada.
International Purgatory


We made a quick stop at the local library in Lynden, Washington (which must get a lot of these types of visits), and raced back to the border. We took the same line, and it was still the slowest line. We expressed our rage by blasting dance music as loud as my poor trucks speakers could go. We were preparing for battle. This time, I had all the right answers. I pointed the rear view mirror at my face, since I could not see through the junk in the back of the truck anyway, and gave myself a pep talk.

We were met by a round woman at the booth who instead of a number on her uniform like the rest of the officers, had her name: Belvediere. I answered all of the same questions without stumbling. When she asked us when the last time we were in Canada was, I avoided my instinct to say that we have never been to Canada, and chose to say, “We were in Canada TWO hours ago!” As I said it, nervousness boiled in my stomach: that was proabbaly the wrong thing to say.

“Oooh, really?” she said. “And whyy did we aask yu ta leave Canada den?”
“We couldn’t show that we had money.” I replied.
“Well den, ya can yust paark over der and head an in to da office.”

The office was a cement building with fluorescent lighting. I couldn’t help but wonder what kind of affect such poor architecture could have on the officer’s personalities. It was cold inside, and the air was dead. We went to the counter and gave proof that we had money and health insurance. They told us to have a seat and then informed us that they were going to search the truck.

We waited for and hour while they searched every nook and cranny, every page of notes, and every document in the cab of the truck. They did not even do a complete search, because I think they realized that they were in for a really challenging search if they wanted to go through all of our stuff in the back.

They called us into the interrogation room after the search was completed and after they kindly put all of our things back into the truck. Two officers stood behind the desk holding two pieces of very fancy paper.

“Well boys, we are going to allow ya to come to Canada.” We jumped for joy and we let them know how excited we were to come in. They told us that the sheets of paper gave us a list of rules and a departure date. While a younger officer took an epoch to fold the sheets and staple them into our passports, the older officer jollily told us why we were profiled.

“Ya see, a lot of people come over as draft dodgers and burden our system, and they usually go to Squamish, and den we have to go trompin' tru the woods to find dem.”

I asked myself, “So this is what climbing has been reduced to at international borders? Draft Dodging?” We nodded our heads, grabbed out passports, memorized the rules, poked fun at the whole process with the officers, and then ran out the door.



This form allows us to be in Canada until August 31, 2010, and we have to hand it in when we leave, or we will never be allowed back!


As I was driving away, there was a hollow feeling in my stomach that did not come from my hunger for food after such a long ordeal. I discovered that the feeling came more from something comforting about being interrogated. It was better than what people made it out to be. There are no other times in our lives when other people want to know so much about you, and actually care about what you are telling them. Granted in this case you are only telling them things that will improve national security, but there is still something pleasant about it.

I wanted them to pry more, like therapy. I wanted them to hear all of my feeling and give me an objective opinion about my lifestyle. I wanted them to find an artifact in the car so that I could explain myself to them and give them more information about myself so that they could piece my life together like a puzzle. I wanted them to like me so much that I could see myself lying to them so that they could find a hidden truth about me. I wanted to ask the officers to comb my mind for lost memories, feelings, and predictions of what my future would be like.

“What do you really think officer? Will I be happy, will I live long and free, do you want to know where I first felt love, do you want to know what scares me? Or do you really only want to know if the I Canadian Healthcare system will be burdened by my prescence?"

My mother spent three days in jail for trying to cross into Mexico. As a kid she always made sure I knew the horror that she felt over those three days. It was a different time, and a young Swedish woman had her reasons to be scared, but sometimes, and only sometimes, do I try to imagine that her real purpose for such a long visit was to give her life story to people who cared, so that they could send her on her way to American Womanhood.

Saturday, July 24, 2010

Idaho

City of Rocks, Idaho.

This place is amazing! This place is characterized by the battle between bolts and traditional climbing. In The City, bolts are numerous, but they are in the worst places. Some routes are over bolted, and some have runouts with potential groundfalls at every clip. The place is even so screwy that there are sometimes no rappel bolts, due to the criticism climbers were getting in the 80's for developing sport climbing.

Come check this place out, because it is a slabby crackhouse playground!
Morning Glory Spire
Sunset over Almo.
Our fellow dirtbag, Jason sending Bloody Fingers!
Lacey avoiding getting her fingers all bloody!
Geroge, playing photographer
Me, atop Morning Glory Spire. A sweet topout!
George, trying not to let go of my belay as a photograph from the knifedge.
The copius amount of rocks in The City make many routes!George on top of offwidth flake.George, the boy from the cold mountains, does not respond positively to Heat! He usually gets too much sweat in his eyesOverhanging roof cracks make us happy!Huge hollow flake on Elephant Rock. You could here this thing vibrate the whole way up.Another sunset over the miniscule town of Almo, Idaho.Steinfelds dome.Our kitchen.George gets tired when he has to climb in the heat.

Wednesday, July 21, 2010

Wyoming

Our trip in Wyoming was a special first leg of our trip. The state is far more fascinating than its Southern neighbors say it is: clearly a product of jealousy.
Le Grande Tetons: The Great Tits

As we exited Wyoming, the steep slopes of Teton Pass gave me time to reflect on the experience. I was pleased with my visit in Wyoming, but I was apprehensive about the move to another location: this has been a reoccurring theme on the journey. Our last four days in the state were in Jackson, and filled me with awe and even exhaustion. My nervousness allowed me to ask how we got to the steep uphill of Teton Pass. With a long first leg of our journey complete, I had not even stopped to reflect on the experiences we had. When I delved deep I noticed that the memories had not even registered themselves into my life: I could barely remember how the first two weeks of the trip went. We did not think about our trip or climbing whilst in Jackson, and in doing so, discovered a new purpose for our trip: take the fun and run. The following is an account of how we escaped Wyoming with the fun hidden in the back of the truck the whole time.

Our experience in Vedauwoo was unlike many visitors there. We know the area well, and have learned to avoid being destroyed by the sharp granite. It was sad and depressing leaving our home in Fat Crack Country. Melancholy filled the truck the entire way to Lander. A bath in the Platte River picked up our moods due to the change in our smell, but mostly reminded us of what we no longer had.
River Bath!

Lander: the sadness spilled out of the truck in the City Park. Lander is a city of progression, and permits camping in their City Park to accommodate the dirtbags, bums, recreationists, and family picnickers of the West. We took a stroll down to Mainstreet and it felt like a battle field. The recent flooding had triggered the building of stone walls all along the river corridor. Lander is closed on Sundays at nine, so we made the trip back to the car after looking in the windows of all the shops. Upon arriving at the car we were overcome by the realization that we had lost the car keys somewhere along the long walk into downtown Lander. Our search re-traced our path into town and left us empty handed. When we returned to the car for the second time that evening, we looked into the passenger window for some sort of savior, and we were startled to find the keys underneath our copious amount of pointless items in the front seat. Greg Hank, from Hank's Keys came and unlocked the car for us the next morning, and then we were on our way to Wild Iris.
This bum in Lander City Park was biking across the country. We actually passed him on our way to Jackson.

We did not waste any time after arriving at Wild Iris, and went straight to the crag to burn off some frustration sport climbing. We were immediately befriended by a middle aged man and his Weimerhiener, and then we spent the rest of the day climbing with him. Ken, was a youthful and slender man. He climbed all of the routes we put up, and impressed us when he said it was his first day climbing in six months. The afternoon heat forced us to take a siesta back at camp. We shared beers with Ken, and he shared produce from his garden. We talked about impressive amount of skiing Ken completed each winter, his work as a school social worker, hunting, saving the world, and eating. He guided us with some helpful advice, and expressed minor jealousy over our trip.
A pretty cool setting.
We developed a saying at Wild Iris: "We can do What Ever We Want!" (George demonstrating that we can even hang upside down in the kitchen.

The next day we returned to our campsite and noticed a new cooler and a bottle of whiskey silhouetted against the Wind River Mountain Range. We found a note that said, "Never too much beer right! Climb hard and ski fast! Ken." Inside the cooler we found a lot of iced down beer, and homemade fruit leather from his garden. We salute Ken and his generosity every day of this trip.
Thank you Ken! Cold Beer and Fruit Leather.
We plan on saving the Whiskey that Ken got us. We take a sip of it at every new location we are in, so that we can remember Ken's generosity.
Lot's of cool rocks at Wild Iris.
George likes to hang upside down.
This is what pocketed limestone looks like!

After a week of phenomenal climbing, we headed for Jackson, where we would meet a buddy from college. Traveling through the arid landscape brought back the usual apprehension that accompanies leaving the places we learn to love. We were warmly received by our pal, and from the moment I shook my hair dry from my first shower to our departure, we were entranced with friendship and kindness. The ingredients for fun were in Jackson: it was the fourth of July weekend, it was George's birthday, the town was crowded, and it seemed that everyone wanted to be our friend.
George's Birthday Cake

Jackson is a town that is seen on two wheels. It had endless bike paths taking us to and from parties to bars. Our visit in Jackson was constantly followed by the stench of celebration, and we soaked in four endless days and nights of sinful activities. There seemed to be some presence, whether it be ours or the recent blossoming of summer that fired up the entire city of Jackson. Its residents were in the streets blessing the flag of our homeland, the children were hiding from the debauchery like all good children should do, the river was floating drunkards to the Atlantic, the bikes were carrying festivities to the masses, cowboys and Indians were shooting each other on Mainstreet, and two dirtbags from Colorado and New York were there to see it all happen.
We did climb a little.
Well, a lot. We found this area called the Buttress, that does not have a guidebook. The area is so new that routes were being put up the week prior to our visit.

Leaving Wyoming for Idaho was predictably accompanied by my sadness for leaving lovely places. We made countless friends in a new town surrounded by dagger like peaks. The first leg of our journey had been completed, leaving us with a tour of Wyoming that reset our capacity to complete this dream trip. We left silently chanting our mantra: "Take the Fun and Run!" As we began our descent of Teton Pass into Idaho, I wondered how my life could be reset in the future. Jackson, Wyoming changed us, and in doing so we forgot all of the good and even the bad things that happened to us throughout the State. This realization makes me thankful for the pen and paper under my gobied hand in helping me remember the life had before the intoxication of friendship in towns like Jackson, because forgetting the spontaneous river baths, locksmiths, parks, Ken's, and fourth of July's of the life is an unacceptable alternative.

Friday, July 2, 2010

Jackson

Who new that Jackson, Wyoming could put on the Disco Dance Party of the decade!

Thursday, July 1, 2010

Limestone!

Lander, Wyoming: free camping in City Park, amazing climbing on pocketed limestone in every direction, and infectious kindness. We climbed at two areas, Wild Iris and Sinks Canyon. Next stop: Jackson, Wyoming for some fun!
Bathing in the Platte River on our way to Lander from Laramie.
Oh yeah, did I ever mention that we do whatever we want. We can even hang upside down in the kitchen!
Unfortunately we do not have any picture of a special guy we met. We climbing with a guy named Ken, and he was so grateful to climb with us that he brought us up a full cooler of beer, a bottle of Whiskey, and homemade/grown fruit leather. Thanks Ken!
This one is for you Ken. He is the embodiment of our trip.
View from our campsite.
Wild Iris is located in the Wind River Mountain Range.
First actual climbing shot of the trip. Mmmmm, Limestone. This rock is pretty wild: there are fossils in the handholds!
We encountered the worst tangle in a rope that I have ever seen. We spent an hour working out the kinks in this 70 meter rope, and it is still twisted!
The rope malfunction sucked, but this did not. We found a natural shower underneath the cliff face. It was cold, but needed.